The Hario...

...is dialed in. I pulled the inner burr to get a better consistency, and used two washers under the locknut so my socket could get a better grip. After fiddling around for another 15 minutes or so, here are the results:

2 notches off locked adjustment nut

4 notches

6  notches

8 notches

 10 notches

12 notches

Took  some doing, but I got the burrs pretty much centered (as I can get), with no drag one notch off the locked adjustment nut. I don't see the need to go stepless. I'll pull out my French press this weekend and see what kind of brew I can get with about a 9 setting. I did a 6 through my Braun (gold mesh filter) and very little sediment. Was it worth all the trouble?

Yeah, sure. I think so.

Now, to finish...

...what I started with the Hario. Just got the OE lower bearing kit.

I've already seen the video on its installation; there's not a lot to it.

Just take everything apart, which is really easy.

 

 Contrary to the video, I have to insert the shaft through the top of the tower before installing the bearing due to the nylon sleeve I used at the top.

 It's a snug fit between the screw posts, so it *snaps* when it's seated.

Set the outer burr and retaining ring in place, align the screw holes, and install the screws, but don't tighten just yet. I set OE's included washer over the shaft, leaving out the plastic washer that originally was installed...

...then set the inner burr in place, and tighten the retaining ring screws so the outer burr is centered. I used a second washer in place of the other plastic washer, and began the alignment process that was explained in the video. I does take a bit of fiddlin' with, but I got a pretty good alignment in about 25 minutes. By adjusting the inner burr so it's close to the outer burr, I was able to spin the shaft and listen for any dragging caused by misalignment.

I tightened the grind adjustment nut down, then backed off five notches as a starting point. It's said you lose some fine grind capability with the OE bearing, but with the way mine is set up, I'll be able to grind powder. There's still just a *tiny* bit of slop, but it takes out probably 95% of what it is from Hario.

Grind adjustment...

...with the Skerton made easy:

Easy Way to Set the Grind on a Hario Skerton

Actually, pretty good instructions. I set mine to 5 notches from (slightly) locked burrs for use in my Braun (brewing through a gold mesh filter). I got a good, consistent grind with less sediment than I was getting with the Zassenhaus, and made a good cup. The sun's up now, so I'm gonna strip it down, clean it up, and head to Home Depot to see what I can come up with in the way of a "bottom bearing". Stay tuned... 

Okay, so I picked up an 8mm lock nut, 8mm flat washer, and a 3/8 x .257 x 1" nylon spacer (I'd seen another mod that used the same spacer but with a .328 hole, but I opted to go smaller and drill it out to fit with less slop). The lock nut will convert the Skerton to stepless adjustment for finer tuning. Off to the garage! 

Since the spacer was slightly undersized for the grinder's shaft (and the closest drill bit I had was the same diameter as the spacer's hole), I had to enlarge it a bit with a small rat-tail file. Took a bit of doin', but it'll just slide over the burr end of the shaft and butt up to the adjustment threads.

The piece of rubber mat was used to roll the spacer as I filed, keeping it from slipping. Worked quite well, too. Once the spacer was filed out to where the shaft *just* turns easily, I scuffed the spacer's surface with some 100 grit sandpaper, replaced the burr, and coated the spacer with adhesive (Liquid Nails). I used the notched adjustment nut to snug up the shaft, and it's setting up to dry (24 hours for the adhesive to fully set).

So, for now, it's back to the Zassenhaus. I've only had one cup and *no* breakfast.

Day 2: The Liquid Nails was useless...didn't set, even after all night. So, I cleaned everything up, and found some quick-setting silicone adhesive. I should know how it's going to work in a few hours. 

Edit: Success! Zero slop at the top, but still some wobble at the bottom. Looks like I'll be ordering the Orphanespresso lower bearing kit after all. I'm looking for *no* slop, anywhere. At least with the spacer, I won't have to worry about the adjustment threads wallowing out the upper support hole as some folks have found out...

I've been doing a lot of reading...

...on the Hario Skerton grinder. My girlfriend gave me a gift card for William Sonoma for Christmas, so I figure I'll retire my faithful old Zassenhaus and try one of these new-fangled gadgets. I know I'll have to mod it (not for grinding coarse, but to prolong its life by keeping the shaft centered), but I like fiddlin' with stuff. I need to get my hands on it first to best figure out what needs to be done (delivery date is Jan 5).

I run across lots of...opinions...about what is needed to make a good cup of coffee. One fella says "You need a scale. Period." I've been using the scoop that came with my Bodum French press for the past 6 or 7 years, and I've done just fine. I thought about getting a scale, but not for what they're selling for. I've measured the temperature of my water, but more out of curiosity than need. When it comes to a boil, I turn off the heat, simple as that. Sometimes I let the grinds bloom, sometimes I don't (it does look kinda cool). The only real facts I've discovered when brewing is:

Use the right amount of hot water (11 ounces).
Use the right amount of good beans (two scoops).
Use clean stuff.
Combine all three for sufficient time (depending upon the method used).

After nine years, I've developed what works best for me. Your mileage may vary.

(Four days later...)

Let the modding begin.

Vintage Durobor...is it...

...a press pot or a pour-over?

Stainless steel Durobor flanked by the lower & upper aluminum model

  From what I've found online, this is supposed to be the correct method to brew using one of these things. I did experiment, after doing this video, with actually *pressing* after letting the grinds bloom. Nope, not the way to do it. Much better results by placing the press piece on top of the grounds, *then* pouring the water in. Acts the same as a spreader in a dripolator. Anyway, if you get one of these, play around with it and see what you can do.

In my personal collection...

...I've tried to acquire as many different types of brewing devices as there are. So far, I have:

(1) 1930s-era Silex 8-cup vacuum pot
(9) 2- to 8-cup dripolators, ranging from pre-WWI to 1960s
(5) percolators, from a late-'40s Pyrex Flameware 4-cup to a modern 3-cup Rapid Brew
(3) 6-cup moka pots: 2 aluminum Bialettis and a stainless steel Vev Vigano
(2) "stove top espresso makers", a 9-cup Via Veneto CX-25 (older model) and a 12-cup Vesuviano (1950s-60s?)
(2) Napoletanas ("flip pots")
Various other devices, such as Durobor press pots, pour-overs, a French press, an Aeropress, the "Ideal" immersion pot, and (3) auto-drip machines. I'm up to 34 so far, and have a few coffee-related items such as this demitasse cup & saucer...

Ter Steege BV Delft Blauw

A '50s Inland carafe and warmer stand...

A William Rogers & Son sugar bowl (with non-matching spoon), $2 at a flea market...

 

Not really coffee-related, but for 50 cents, I couldn't pass it up...

 

1930's "Kellogg's Correct Cereal Creamer"

I used to have a ton of coffee cups, old restaurant china from like the '50s & '60s. That heavy stuff that would break a toe if you dropped it. Homer Laughlin and Fire King were my favorites; but I also had Shenago, Jackson, and Buffalo. Cups, mugs, saucers, plates, gravy boats, platters, and creamers. I might have a dozen mugs left, if that many. One Homer Laughlin mug I use for shaving (yes, I still use a brush and a '70s Gillette double-edge adjustable). I also have a huge Faberware 36-cup urn (no guts, though) and a Bunn single warmer.

I think the oddest piece I have is a little (tea?) kettle I found in an antique shop outside of Wimberley a couple of years ago...

 The only markings are "18-8 Stainless Steel Made in Japan" on the bottom. A cylindrical wire mesh filter snaps onto the lid, and fits to within like 3/16" from the bottom. I'm thinking this is more for brewing loose-leaf tea than for coffee, but could be used with a fairly coarse grind. I couldn't find another like it anywhere on the interwebz, though. One-of-a-kind? It would be cool if it was.
   

"The 'Perfect' Cup of Coffee"...

...doesn't exist. Sorry, all you YouTube coffeshops/roasters/"baristas". That's just a proven statement, because everyone else's tastes don't necessarily jibe with yours.

I don't worry about showing *you* how to brew the "best" or "perfect" cup. I concentrate on showing you how to use these obsolete dinosaurs (and throw in some tips that work for me). It takes time and practice, experimenting with different beans, grinds, and brew times to suit *your* tastes. Frankly, I use the same grind for my Braun as I do with the Wilbur, or my Melitta 101, or my Aeropress, and get the results that suit me just fine. I do make exception when using my French press, of course, and adjust my brewing time accordingly. Just like any other recipe, you tweak it to suit you.

Any one brew method is no better than the other. "Derrrr, Chemex make the best...". For you, maybe. Some folks on Ebay sure are proud of 'em (btw...William Sonoma has the 6-cup for under $40, just sayin'). Even *my* favorite method changes. When I first started using the little Silex 2-cupper, I thought I wouldn't ever use anything else...until I got the Wilbur. So so happens I just finished a cup made with it. When I'm in a hurry, I use the Braun. It's been making a great cup for the past nine years. I may go back in the kitchen in a few minutes and use the Aeropress. Point being, I don't stick with one method. I like to play with my stuff and see what I can concoct. 

Even the roast of the bean. I personally prefer a dark roast, Italian being one of my favorites. But I've found a good Sumatran medium roast that's equally pleasing. Lighter roasts don't grind (by hand) as smooth as darker roasts; I reckon that's due to the oily surfaces on the beans. I'm not a scientist, so I'm just guessing. But I know what *I* like.

So when you watch these videos and some Poindexter pulls out the scale and thermometer, take it with a grain of salt. Just keep your pot clean, use good beans (with a good scoop) and fresh water (just under a boil), and pay attention to what you're doing. Find what works for *you*...then keep working on it.

(Well, I didn't use the Aeropress...but I think I found Wilbur's sweet spot. Yeah. That's the stuff...)